UK metal detecting clubs:

Below is a list of the main UK-based metal detecting clubs, associations and societies:

Berkshire

The Wessex Metal Detecting Association

 

Buckinghamshire

The Magiovinium Metal Detecting Club

 

Cambridgeshire

Phoenix Metal Detecting Club

 

Cheshire

South Lancs and Cheshire Metal Detecting Club

West Kirby Metal Detecting Club

Crewe and Nantwich Metal Detecting Society

 

Cleveland

Cleveland Discoverers

 

Cornwall

Kernow Search & Recovery Club Cornwall

This club currently has no website so if you are interested please contact Dave Fletcher at either:

22 Plain An Gwarry

Redruth

UK

TR15 1JB

or at:

roman@eurobell.co.uk

 

Co Durham

Prince Bishop Metal Detecting Club

Freedomsearchers Metal Detecting Club

This club currently has no website so if you are interested please contact the management at:

freedomsearchers@hotmail.co.uk

Tyneside Metal Detecting Association

Quakers Acres Metal Detecting Club

 

Cumbria

Kendal and District Metal Detecting Club

Cumbrian Seekers Metal Detecting Club

 

Derbyshire

High Peak Metal Detecting Club

This club currently has no website so if you are interested please contact Mike Bull at:

mike308@gmx.com

Chesterfield Metal Detecting Club

This club currently has no website so if you are interested please contact Andy Morris at:

cmdc@hotmail.co.uk

Making Derbyshire Safer Metal Detecting Association

 

Devon

Taw and Torridge Metal Detecting Club

Teign Bridge Metal Detecting Group

South Hams Metal Detecting Club

Torbay Metal Detecting Club

Plymouth Detector Club (now known as South West Searchers)

 

Dorset

Weymouth and Portland Metal Detecting Club

 

East Yorkshire

The Metal Detecting Society Cottingham East Riding

This society currently has no website so if you are interested please contact Barry Freeman on:

(01482) 843213

 

Essex

Essex Detector Society

Brentwood and District Metal Detecting Club

East Coast Searchers Club

Colchester and District Metal Detecting and Artefact Club

 

Gloucestershire

Taynton Metal Detecting Club

SevernVale Historical Research and Detecting Society

Cotswold Heritage and Detecting Society

 

Hertfordshire

Herts and District Metal Detecting Society

 

Isle of Wight

Vectis Searchers Club (Isle of Wight)

 

Kent

Mid-Kent Metal Detecting Club

Canterbury and District Searchers

This organisation currently has no website so if you are interested please contact Neil Allen at:

neil@cads1.wanadoo.co.uk

Folkestone Metal Detecting Club

West Kent Detector Club

Swale Search & Recovery Club

Royal Phoenix Detecting Group

White Cliffs Detecting Club

Medway History Finders

 

Lancashire

Lune Valley Metal Detecting Club

South Lancs and Cheshire Metal Detecting Club

Ribble Valley Metal Detecting Club

 

Leicestershire

Hinckley Search Society

Loughborough Coin & Search Society

 

Lincolnshire

Wolds Historical Research Society

This society currently has no website so if you are interested please contact Kev Woodward on:

(01507) 534005

or at:

kevandjenn.woodward333@btinternet.com

Scunthorpe Metal Detecting Society

Stamford and Spalding Search Club

Lincoln Historical Search Society

This society currently has no website so if you are interested please contact Chris Jones on:

(01529) 413905

 

Midlands

Timeline Detection

 

Nottinghamshire

Warsop Metal Detecting Society

Ashfield Metal Detecting Club

 

Norfolk

East Norfolk Metal Detecting Society

 

Scotland

The Ayrshire Research and Detecting Group

This group currently has no website so if you are interested please contact Alan Leishman on:

(01294) 466450

or at:

audidoleish@btinternet.com

Highland Historical Search Society

Scottish Artefact Recovery Group

The Scottish Detector Club

 

Shropshire

Marches Metal Detectorists

The Weston Historical Research and Detecting Association

 

Somerset

The Somerset Artifact Seekers

 

South Yorkshire

Doncaster Detector and Collectors Club

 

Staffordshire

North Staffs Metal Detecting Club

This club currently has no website so if you are interested please contact Alan Ridgway at:

ridgeyman@ntlworld.com

Bloxwich Research & Metal Detector Club

 

Surrey

Camberley and Bagshot Metal Detecting Club

This club currently has no website so if you are interested please contact the management at:

jrhodes31@ntlworld.com

 

Wales

Brecon Metal Detecting Club

Rhondda Artefacts & Research Enthusiasts

Wrexham Metal Detecting Club

Wrexham Heritage Society

Swansea Metal Detecting Club

Cardiff Scan Club

Pembrokeshire Prospectors Metal Detecting Club

The Historical Search Society (Mold) (North Wales)

Celtic Searchers

 

Warwickshire

Long Compton Archaeology Group

 

West Midlands

Midland Metal Detecting Community

 

West Yorkshire

Wakefield District Relic Hunters

Two Dales Metal Detecting Club

 

Worcestershire

The Tenbury Wells Metal Detecting Club

This club currently has no website so if you are interested please contact Peter Laver on:

07866 124799

or at:

ukpete36@aol.com

                                                                                                                                                     

If you can’t find a club, association or society on the list that is appropriate for you then please check this directory for a complete A-Z list of all metal detecting clubs, associations and societies based within the UK.

Clubs either belong to the Federation of Independent Detectorists, the National Council for Metal Detecting or are totally independent and do not belong to any national organisations. Should you have any queries regarding a club, please do not hesitate to contact us and we will do our best to assist you.

Back to home page.

Types of metal detectors:

metal-detecting

There are 3 main types of metal detectors;

VLF (very low frequency) – most versatile, two coils, one

sender, one receiver,

PI (pulse induction) – like radar, works best when there’s little amounts of rubbish (e.g. bottle caps, tin cans etc),

and BFO (beat frequency oscillator) – the oldest type and not often used anymore as it lacks accuracy or control, but has two oscillators (one of which is de-tuned by metal objects).

If you are serious about taking up metal detecting as a hobby then be prepared to pay a minimum of £200 for a decent detector (any less and you’re just getting a non-functional toy, anymore than £500 and you’re getting ripped off).

Here are some good quality brands that cater to a limited budget:

41KBxtCqOlL__SY300_laser_logo

7842531_origfisher-main-logo-22

TesoroLogominelab_logo

Viking-metal-detectorswhites

If you are unsure on which metal detector is the one for you then check out Hidden History’s advice on “what to look for when buying a metal detector”.

If you’ve got yourself a detector or are just interested in joining a club then check out our list of UK-based clubs!

Back to home page.

Quad Biking

It’s one of the most exhilarating hobbies you can take up!

Quad Biking is suited for a variety of ages and abilities, and has venues all across the world to fuel your adrenaline addiction.

Most venues offer hire of bikes for the session, however it is important to check first before booking. It is also key to make sure safety equipment such as helmets are provided by the venue also.

More experienced riders who might have their own bike might have their preferred courses, but if looking to try a new one should check that the course suits their bike, such as engine size.

For those looking to buy their own equipment, essentials to buy first include boots, chest and back protectors, goggles, elbow and knee pads and a helmet. These can all be found on MoToSPORT.

QUADNATION lists all UK Quad Biking venues as well as prices, with 60 Quad Biking venues nationwide, you might find one closer than you imagined!

Feel free to watch the video below to see how the professionals do it!

Three golden rules for beginning standup

There’s many reasons why people decide to try standup comedy – a desire to make people laugh, a way to turn your problems into something enjoyable – but whatever your inspiration, there’s a few things you should keep in mind.

Writing and performing are both important
As a spectator it’s easy to be fooled into thinking that comedians go up on stage, tell some jokes and leave. As a performer, it’s important to remember that this is actually a very small part of the job. The reality of stand-up comedy is that more hours go into writing than anything else – otherwise, you’d have no material to deliver.

It’s important to make sure you’re writing original material whenever you can. A solid five minute set will be enough for your first open mic, but that doesn’t mean the first five minutes of stuff you write. The more you write, the better you will become. The phrase ‘practice makes perfect’ may be a cliché but it rings true in the stand-up industry.

I find it helps to set myself a schedule of writing time at the beginning of each week and stick to it no matter what. During my day-to-day life I make notes of ideas and thoughts that I think have potential and then I’ll expand on them during those dedicated hours. For me, stand-up is still a hobby on the side and is something that I have to work around university, so my writing schedule often consists of two big sessions of around 4 hours at the weekend and then the odd hour throughout the week. I find this is enough for me to have a new 10 minutes of material that I’m confident in by the end of every month.

Check out Jerry Seinfeld’s interview with The New York Times if you want some writing tips from a true comedy legend:

Remember that everybody bombs
This is possibly the most important thing that a beginner comedian needs to know. Many people use a fear of bombing as an excuse to put off their first time on stage, but there’s no need to. Simply put, everybody bombs. Even the most established comedians will have terrible sets when trying out new material in small clubs. Unfortunately, there is only one way to find out whether a joke works in front of a live audience or not – and it’s the hard way.

If you go on stage for the first time and a joke falls flat, or you’re unhappy with how it went, then don’t let this phase you. Take this reaction as the best feedback you’ll get during your time as a comedian and use it to change or drop what you’ve got until you’re getting the laughs you think you should be.

The first time I bombed was at a venue I’d never set foot in before. I went on stage with around 5 minutes of material I’d tested at another, very different bar in the few weeks before. I quickly learnt that some things aren’t going to work for everybody and used my time to play around with my existing set to try and get the audience back on my side. I wasn’t entirely lucky, but I finished the night with some new ideas under my belt at least.

Comedian Hannibal Buress went into great detail about the positives of bombing in a recent interview with Village Voice. It’s essential reading if you’re sure you want to give stand-up a whirl.

Keep performing, practice before and after and then perform some more.
If you want to take this even remotely seriously, then it’s important that you perform and practice as regularly as possible. Even if, like me, you live in a town with little to nothing in terms of live comedy, there’ll be somewhere you can get stage time. Music-centered open mics are usually happy to have stand-up comedians come and perform. Just find out who’s in charge and ask them before you go up and don’t be afraid to go back the next week with the same set.

It’s also important to get into the habit of practicing at home. If I’ve got a gig one night, I like to spend the day going through my delivery and timing. It may seem silly to think about, but reading your material aloud in front of a mirror can be a great help. Pretend the mirror’s an audience and you’ll get the rare chance to see how you look to other people, rather than how you think you’re coming across.

Performing to friends or housemates is another option but don’t be fooled into thinking you’ll get the same reaction in the same parts of your set during an actual gig. From my experience, friends are too kind and laugh just because they think they should, rather than because they’ve actually found something funny.

And one last thing: Have fun. That’s what comedy is for, after all. 

Guitar amplifiers – which one is for you?

So you’ve purchased your first electric guitar, but no-one likes to rock out in silence, so now buying your first guitar amp awaits you. Which one to go for strongly depends on why you play guitar, there are some amps optimized for playing along to songs by yourself, whereas if you’re in a band and gig regular, you’ll want to consider a more heavy duty, and more importantly a louder one.

The bedroom player.

Look no higher than a 15w amp, anything more powerful will be unnecessarily loud for your surroundings. Look for amps that either have an input jack for headphones so you can use your amp and still be silent, or an auxiliary input so you can plug an audio cable into a laptop or iPod and play songs through your amp.

Suggestion –  Fender Frontman 10G. 

Image Courtesy – Fender

Starting to play in a band.

It is key when buying amplifiers as a band to look at the power (w) of what you are buying, for instance, having a rhythm guitar amp 10w louder than the lead guitar one is far from ideal.

If like most 4 piece bands starting out, you are unsure what product to buy, do some research first. Try not to get tricked into buying because of fancy features, such as multiple kinds of echo, and a variety of different distortion channels. These can sometimes hide a poorly manufactured amplifier. To play along with a band and not be drowned out, your first amp should be around 15 – 20w, have a solid sound on both clean and distorted channels and be able to handle the wear and tear of being carried/transported around.

Suggestion – Orange Crush PiX CR20L.

 

Orange Crush PiX CR20L Combo Amp

Image Courtesy – Orange.

The Experienced Player.

Now you will have moved past combo amplifiers, and are probably looking at mastering your sound. Both combo amps ranging from 50w+ and ‘stack’ amplifiers consisting of a head and cabinet are what most experienced players choose from. Popular brands for stack amps include Marshall, Fender, Blackstar and more.The best advice would be to go to a music store and see for yourself what suits and sounds the best for you, these kind of amplifiers can extremely expensive and an investment that needs to be researched!

Image Courtesy - Marshall.

Image Courtesy – Marshall.

For new players, check out the video below from Free Guitar Videos to get to grips with terms such as gain, channels, distortion and more. Or if you’ve already bought an amplifier and you’re looking for a guitar to go with it, read our guitar guide.