Befuddled about gongoozling?

 

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As baffling as the name is, the actual hobby itself is rather quite simple. As leisurely as you like, from the bank of a canal, a lock or a bridge, all you have to do to be a gongoozler is watch the passage of passing boats.

If you live near a canal then you are quite likely to do this anyway, but if you find it interesting or enjoyable then you may as well make it official and declare yourself a gongoozler.

If you have a bike, why not take a cycle along the canal to really spice up your gongoozling? Or bring a camera and take some photographs of the boats, wildlife or people you see. Check out the wildlife around the water (all though don’t get to close to some of them unless you have bread). You can even bring a nice lunch or a good book, but whatever you do try not to do too much. Just sit back (or lean against some railings or a wall) and watch the boats pass you by.

An introduction to fencing techniques.

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Techniques or actions in fencing can be divided into two categories: offensive and defensive. Techniques or actions used with the intention of landing a hit on your opponent are offensive. those used to protect against a hit or obtain the “right of way” are defensive, but some techniques or actions can fall under either category.

Offensive:

Attack – Also known as a thrust, this is a basic fencing technique consisting of extending the sword arm to declare an attack and attempt to land a valid touch upon the opponent’s target area. In sabre fencing, attacks can also be made with a cutting motion.

Feint – An attack with the purpose of provoking the opponent to respond.

Lunge – A forwards thrust that extends the front leg in a slight kicking motion in order to propel the body forwards with the back leg.

Beat Attack (can also be defensive) – In foil and sabre fencing, the attacker beats the opponent’s blade to gain “right of way” and then continues the attack against the target area. In épée fencing, the attacker beats the opponent’s blade with the intention of disturbing their aim and therefore scoring with a single light (electric fencing uses lights on the target areas to indicate a score).

Disengage – This is when the attacker begins in one direction, but then quickly moves the point of their blade downwards in a semi-circle to attack a different location. This is obviously used to trick the opponent and cause them to block in the wrong direction.

Continuation of Attack – A typical épée fencing action of making a second attack immediately after the first attack is parried.

Remise – A second attack immediately after the first has missed or been parried. In foil or sabre, a remise is considered to have lost “right of way”, and the defender’s riposte will always score instead of the remise.

Flick – A technique which is primarily used in foil fencing. It takes advantage of the extreme flexibility of the foil blade and uses it like a whip, bending the blade so that it curves over and strikes the opponent with the point.

Defensive:

Parry – A basic defence technique that blocks the opponent’s weapon whilst it is preparing or executing an attack to deflect the blade away from the fencer’s valid target area and to give the fencer “right of way” (in foil and sabre fencing only).

Circle Parry – A parry where the blade is twisted in a circle in order to catch the opponent’s tip and deflect it away.

Riposte – After a successful parry, the defender has “right of way” and may riposte (attack).

Counter Attack – A basic fencing technique of attacking your opponent whilst moving out of the way of the opponent’s own attack.

Point in Line – The technique of extending the weapon and arm against the opponent’s valid target area.

These offensive and defensive techniques may be performed in countless combinations of feet and hand actions.

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On the fence about fencing?

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Fencing is a very easy sport to start at any age. It is fun, exciting and athletic; it keeps the body and the mind fit so if you’re looking to get active physically and mentally then this is the sport for you!

There are three swords or weapons in fencing and each one has its own rules and strategies:

Foil: a light, thrusting weapon that targets the torso (including the back), neck, and groin, but not the arms or legs. The foil has a small protective, circular hand guard (to shield the hand from direct stabs). In foil fencing, touches can only be scored using the tip of the blade. Using the side of the foil does not score a touch and also does not halter the action. Any touches landed outside of the target area (off-target touches) do halt the action, but are not scored. Only a single touch can be scored by either fencer at any one time. If both fencers happen to land valid touches at the same time, the referee will use the rules of “right of way” to determine which fencer scores the touch. If the right of way cannot be determined by the referee then neither fencer will score the touch.

Épée: a thrusting weapon like the foil, but much heavier. In épée fencing, the entire body is a valid target. The épée has a large protective, circular hand guard that extends towards the pommel and pretty much covers the hand, which unlike in foil fencing, is a valid target in épée fencing. The rules of épée fencing are initially the same as foil fencing, all though there is no concept of an off-target touch, other than if the fencer accidentally strikes the floor. Also, unlike foil fencing (and unlike sabre fencing), épée fencing does not use the “right of way” rule, and therefore allows both fencers to simultaneously strike each other. However, if the score is tied in a match at the last point and both fencers properly strike each other at the same time, neither are score the touch.

Sabre: a light thrusting and cutting weapon that targets the entire upper body (above the waist), aside from the hands. The sabre has a hand guard extending from the pommel to the base of where the blade connects to the hilt and this is generally turned outwards during sport to protect the sword arm. Unlike foil and épée fencing, in sabre fencing hits with the point of the blade or the edges are valid. As in foil fencing however, off-target touches are not scored, but they do not halt the action. Also like foil fencing, the use of the “right of way” rule is employed by the referee.

As expected in a sport that involves swords, protective clothing must be worn when fencing. The complete fencing kit includes:

  • A form-fitting jacket, with a strap (known as a croissard) which goes between the legs; however, in sabre fencing jackets are cut along the waist. A small band of folded fabric is sewn in around the collar to ensure the opponent’s blade does not slip beneath the mask and is also sewn along the jacket upwards towards the neck.
  • An underarm protector, known as a plastron, which is worn underneath the jacket and provides doubled protection on the sword arm side and upper arm.
  • A single glove for the sword arm with a gauntlet to prevent blades slipping beneath the sleeve and causing injury. The glove also protects the hand and provides a good grip.
  • Breeches (or knickers) which are a pair of short trousers, ending just below the knee. The breeches are required to have a 10 cm overlap with the jacket to ensure the blade does not slip beneath either (most are equipped with suspenders/braces to hold them up).
  • Knee-length (or thigh high) socks.
  • Flat soled shoes which have reinforcement on the inside of the back foot and heel of front foot to prevent wear as a result of constant lunging.
  • A mask, including a big to protect the neck. Be careful when selecting a mask as some modern types (ones with see-through visors in the front) are banned in foil and épée fencing.
  • A plastic chest protector is mandatory for female fencers, but is also available for male fencers.
  • Worn only in foil and sabre fencing, a lamé (electrically conductive material) is worn over the entire target area to assist with scoring. In foil fencing the lamé is sleeveless, but in sabre fencing it has sleeves and is cut across the waist.

If you are interesting in taking up fencing and want to find a club near you then click here to do so.

For a brief introduction into fencing techniques click here.

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Garrett Pro-Pointer®

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This little gadget will save you time and effort by pinpointing your treasure without you having to root through heaps of soil or sand.

Garrett Pro-Pointer® unique features:

  • Patented proportional audio/vibration pulse indicates targets
  • Patented scraping blade to sift through the soil to speed recovery
  • Meets IEC 60529 IP 66 standards for dust and water protection. Entire unit can be rinsed/cleaned under water.
  • Twice the battery life of other pinpointers with LED lights
  • 9 volt battery included
  • Exclusive one-button retune provides fast adjustment—without having to step through multiple sensitivity settings. Retuning allows user to quickly:
    • shrink detection field to precisely pinpoint large targets,
    • tune out mineralized ground, wet beach sand, etc,
    • help gauge target size/distance,
    • help identify edges of large target,
    • and pinpoint multiple targets versus one large target signal.

Other key features:

  • Pinpoint tip detection
  • 360° side scan detection area
  • LED light for low light uses
  • Automatic tuning
  • Large power button is easy to operate even with gloves
  • Woven belt holster included

Check out the video below to see the Garrett Pro-Pointer® in action:

Check out Amazon if you’re interesting in purchasing your own Garrett Pro-Pointer®.

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Essentials to take with you when metal detecting:

In your metal detector bag:

  • Your metal detector (with freshly charged batteries)
  • Digging tools: a trowel and/or small shovel (plus a sand-scoop when digging on beaches)
  • A pro-pointer (remember to check the batteries)
  • A set of headphones

In your backpack:

  • Spare batteries (for all essential electrical equipment with you)
  • Zip-lock bags for good finds
  • Plastic carrier bags for finds that will later be disposed of
  • A magnifying glass
  • A basic first-aid kit
  • Food and water
  • A digital camera (all though you can do without this)
  • Metal detector instructions (sometimes it is good to check the settings before a search)

Other essentials for the backpack that are good to keep in a plastic waterproof case:

  • Your NCMD card (National Council for Metal Detecting membership card)
  • Permission letters (relating to the land you are searching)
  • Your Crown Estate permit (if detecting on foreshore)
  • A Crown Estate map (of the beach you are going to)
  • A handheld GPS

In the car:

  • Towels
  • Spare shoes & socks
  • Spare headphones
  • Sun-tan cream
  • Anti-septic wipes
  • Toilet roll
  • Mobile phone charger (and any other necessary chargers)
  • A sun and/or winter hat (unless it is already on your head)
  • Waterproofs (unless they’re already being worn)

It is is also recommended that you keep a fully charged mobile phone or a walkie talkie (if with a group) on your person during all digs.

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